• Amy Raimondi, NTP, MLIS

Vitamin C in Skincare: Benefits and Nuances


Vitamin C is an essential nutrient found in many foods that is used internally, in both food and supplement form, for a wide range of conditions and has numerous healing benefits.


It’s also powerful addition to topical skincare, when used properly. Topical vitamin C in skincare can:


• Provide and instant boost of luminous radiance

• Leave skin glowing

• Promote an even skin tone

• Provide antioxidants to help defend skin against environmental stressors like pollution


Vitamin C can be very unstable—meaning it can lose its effectiveness quickly—especially in its purest form, L-ascorbic acid. It can also be very irritating and drying to the skin, especially those with sensitive skin.

Beautycounter has created a new product, the All Bright C Serum, to give the skin all the benefits of vitamin C without the trade off. The serum is a unique blend of two ultra-stable (meaning very effective) forms of vitamin C for a supercharged 10% potency. It immediately brightens skin while helping reduce the appearance of dark spots. It also contains turmeric and camu camu extracts help protect against dark spots and defend skin from the damaging effects of environmental stressors — revealing a more youthful-looking complexion.

The All Bright C Serum is 10% vitamin C from two forms of ultra-stable, yet potent. vitamin C. Too high of a concentration can cause irritation, and too low of a concentration doesn’t deliver skin benefits.


The two forms of vitamin C in the serum are:

1) 5% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate - This antioxidant reduces the appearance of dark spots and boosts skin brightening to reveal more youthful-looking skin.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a more stable, oxidation-resistant form of vitamin C, and is therefore more powerful at lower concentrations than ascorbic acid! When people ask about the “percent” of vitamin C, they often think higher is better; not the case with this form. In fact, high concentrations of the parent form, L-Ascorbic Acid, have a huge trade-off: they can be irritating to the skin. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is effective at lower concentrations, and less potential for irritation.


It’s lipid-soluble, so its effects are deeper and longer-lasting in the skin, which is made of lipids! It actually penetrates the skin, THEN converts to L-ascorbic acid, a much better delivery system.


Because of this, it can do 3 things:

1. Serves as an antioxidant (this helps prevent wrinkles/aging) … camu camu and turmeric enhance this activity

2. Fades discoloration by normalizing your skin’s production of melanin.

3. Boosts collagen production - most vitamin C serums with ascorbic acid do the bulk of their work as an antioxidant. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate can also boost collagen production because it penetrates more deeply.


2) 5% Bis-Glyceryl Ascorbate - A second form of vitamin C, this ingredient provides antioxidant benefits known to protect skin from damaging environmental stressors and helps improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.


Bis glyceryl ascorbate is ascorbic acid bound to glycerine, which adds moisture-retention power to the antioxidant properties of vitamin C. Many vitamin C serums, especially higher % AA, can be irritating or cause problems for dry skin. Bisglyceryl ascorbate should help make this serum appropriate for all skin types, including dry!


Other key ingredients are:

Turmeric Root Extract - The serum’s vibrant hue? That’s due to turmeric, an antioxidant superstar that helps even skin tone and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.


Camu Camu Fruit Extract - This powerful antioxidant helps reduce the appearance of dark spots while brightening to visually improve signs of skin fatigue.


WHY IS IT SAFER?

Counter+ All Bright C Serum is formulated without ethoxylated ingredients (including PEGs) because of reproductive and developmental concerns, as well as toxicity to the aquatic environment due to their persistence. It is also formulated without dyes.


As always, every ingredient used in our formula has gone through our rigorous raw material screening and testing process to ensure it’s safe for human health.


DOES VITAMIN C CAUSE PHOTOSENSITIVITY?

No, vitamin C does not make your skin more sensitive to the sun. This is a common misconception because citrus oil does cause sensitivity to the sun, and citrus oil does contain vitamin C. However, not all vitamin C contains citrus oil. The All Bright C Serum does not contain citrus oil and does not cause photosensitivity.


HOW TO USE:

Apply to face, neck, and décolletage. Use every morning after cleanser and toner, and before moisturizer. All Bright C Serum can be layered over another serum in your regimen.




Here’s what is looks like in your regimen:



1. Cleanse

2. Prep/Tone

3. Treat

a. Regimen serum

b. All Bright C Serum

4. Protect/Moisturize



I use mine with the Countertime regimen.


The All Bright C Serum is good for all skin types. If you have sensitive skin, we recommend doing a patch test on the back of your neck or inside of your wrist and wait 24 hours before full face application.


The product has a 12 month shelf life.

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I am not a doctor or registered dietitian. A Nutritional Therapy Practitioner™ is not trained to provide medical diagnosis or treatment of any medical or pathological condition, illness, injury or disease.  No recommendation or comment made by a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner™ should be construed as being medical advice or diagnosis.

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